The much-anticipated new anthology by Guy Robertson and Hamish Frost, showcasing evocative essays and breathtaking photography that capture the spirit, history and community of Scottish winter climbing.
There’s something deeply nourishing about the physical and psychological freedoms of winter climbing. It holds tremendous spiritual appeal in an increasingly sterile, risk-averse world, where children no longer play unsupervised, and mountain safety is locked into your mobile phone. Yet no matter what society tells us is or is not acceptable, or how technology influences our behaviour, winter climbing will always provide us with the opportunity to step outside these shackles and define our own destiny.
The Great Mixed Climbs of Scotland focuses foremost on the climbs and their protagonists. It draws deeply from the great history and characters that run as the blood of Scottish mixed climbing – Dave Cuthbertson gets into white-knuckle mode recounting the near-mythical first ascent of Guerdon Grooves; Graeme Ettle recalls his blistering tour de force on The Vicar; Wilson Moir remembers an accidental first ascent with Nose Direct on Sgùrr an Fhidhleir; while Leanne Callaghan reminds us that her particular Neanderthal was female.
The essays are complemented by breathtaking photography that captures the places where these stories unfold, and the rugged beauty of the winter environment. From long, daylight-chasing adventures tackling sandstone monoliths in the far North-West, to calf-bursting crack lines piercing snowed-up walls in the Cairngorms – there’s something here for everyone.
Winter climbing has changed dramatically over the past two decades. Improvements in protection and more specific training have made steeper, bolder terrain more accessible. Techniques developed for continental-style sport mixed climbing have been transferred to the Scottish mountains, paving the way for a new era in Scottish mixed climbing. But although these technical changes have helped push boundaries, it’s the steadfast, stubborn ethical standpoint that has made its progression so unique.
Praise for The Great Mixed Climbs of Scotland
Visually striking and full of heart, this lavish new book is a brilliant piece of work … it deserves a place on every winter climber’s coffee table. – John McKenna, UKClimbing.com